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Volume 31--Number 11• November 20, 2007 Serving Portland, Surrounding Areas, and Seattle

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Northern Idaho Part 2
Travel Excursion


 

Alter in Old Mission – Cataldo, Idaho – Photo By Patrice Raplee
Alter in Old Mission – Cataldo, Idaho – Photo By Patrice Raplee

By Patrice Raplee

 

Alone on a hilltop in the golden afternoon light stands a beautiful Greek revival-style mission. The old edifice emanates an aura that whispers of a romantic past. A man dressed in a cassock is poised on the mission’s steps, beckoning visitors to come and hear the tale of the oldest standing building in Idaho State.

The Old Mission, located in Cataldo, Idaho, bares a remarkable history and a mystical aura. Built in 1850 by members of the Coeur d’Alene Indian Tribe and Catholic missionaries, the Old Mission was fashioned out of hand-hewn timbers. The wooden frame was then woven with grass or straw and sealed with mud (wattle and daub method). Years later, the interior and exterior walls were covered with boards. The interior of the Old Mission is exquisite with old-world paintings, a lovely domed altar and ornate hand-carved wooden filigree ceiling panels, stained with Idaho huckleberries. The bluish stain from the berries is still prevalent today.

Father Antonio Ravalli, an Italian Jesuit, designed the mission and created many of the hand-carved statues and paintings, including the painted altar that looks like pure marble. Ravalli was an amazingly educated and accomplished artist and priest. His extensive training across multiple disciplines (science, theology, art, medicine, literature etc.) prepared him for the task of creating a church of rare beauty from materials at hand in mid 1800s-Idaho. Ravalli’s strong bond with the Coeur d’Alene Tribe, his teachings and creation of the Old Mission, has inextricably linked him with Idaho’s incredible history.

Upon visiting the Old Mission, inquire at the visitor’s center (located several yards below the mission) about the Living History Black Robe Presentation. Park ranger Lonnie Johnson presents a riveting reenactment of Brother Francis, a missionary and carpenter who worked closely with Ravalli (Hollywood would be lucky to get this guy). These fascinating interpreter programs take visitors back in time to experience the Old Missionary’s inception and interaction of the European missionaries and Coeur d’Alene Tribe. The new Visitor’s Center will be completed in the fall of ’08 with an extensive Native American exhibit entitled Sacred Encounters. For additional information, visit http://parksandrecreation.idaho.gov/parks/oldmission.aspx

Crystal Gold Mine – George Cornell demonstrates hand-steeling method for dynamite - Photo By Patrice Raplee
Crystal Gold Mine – George Cornell demonstrates hand-steeling method for dynamite - Photo By Patrice Raplee

Mines and Museums

Idaho is known as the silver capital, yet various other metals are mined as well, such as gold and base metals. Idaho’s mining boom in the 1800s shaped the state’s economy, built cities and played host to colorful western characters such as Wyatt Earp and Calamity Jane. Several mining claims from Idaho’s past are now mine tours and their history is equally as colorful. The Crystal Gold Mine in Kellogg, located 30 miles southeast of Coeur d’Alene off Interstate 90, was lost for over 100 years. Tom Erwin originally discovered the mine in 1879 and worked it for three years before disappearing, never to be seen again. The mine was unearthed in 1991 due to water seepage from the hillside and it was discovered that the drift continued 550 feet into the hillside. Also found were the track, mining car and tools just as Erwin had left them, as if he had planned to come back. Today, the mine is open for tours with all of Erwin’s mining accoutrements still in place. Carbonate crystal and stalactite formations, as well as gold spots and silver, gleam brightly from the tunnel walls and are a great photo opportunity. The tours are intriguing, and are led along a well-lit concrete pathway that follows the drift back to an underground water expanse. At the end of the tour, there is gold panning outside of the mine. This is good fun but addicting as panners find bits of garnet, purple amethyst, iron pyrite and various gems in large water-filled gravel bins. For additional information on Crystal Gold Mine, visit http://www.goldmine-idaho.com

Another interesting mine tour to mention is the Sierra Silver Mine Tour, located in Wallace, Idaho. For additional information, visit http://www.silverminetour.org

Mining museums in Kellogg and Wallace present a larger dimension and bring to life Idaho’s top industry with historical information, photographs, tools, stories and artifacts. The Shoshone County Mining and Smelting Museum in Kellogg, is located in the old Bunker Hill Staff House and is a great place to spend an afternoon perusing local lore. The Wallace District Mining Museum located on Bank Street in Wallace, looks a bit like a tourist shop upon entering, but jaunt to your right and continue on into the museum. Numerous mining artifacts and historical paraphernalia such as an old linotype machine fill the large room in a dizzying display. In the back of the museum, interpretive video programs are shown in the 30-seat theater illustrating the region’s mining history and stories of the success and hardship of the early mining era. For additional information on the Shoshone County Mining and Smelting Museum in Kellogg, visit http://www.staffhousemuseum.com

For additional information on the Wallace District Mining Museum, visit http://www.wallace-id.com/business.html#tourist.

For an unusual museum experience if you’re in Wallace, Idaho, tour the famous Oasis Bordello Museum. Located on Cedar Street, the bordello was originally a hotel and saloon in 1895. Popular with the local miners, the Oasis eventually turned into a brothel and continued business until 1988. After an apparent raid in ’88, the bordello’s occupants beat a hasty retreat leaving everything behind. Today, the museum remains exactly as it was in ’88. A bag of groceries still sits on the kitchen counter and the pantry displays boxes of red light bulbs. The lower portion of the Oasis features interesting bits of memorabilia and mannequins dressed in apparel from past eras. This fascinating tour is tactful, interesting and amusing; it provides a glimpse of the ladies’ lives in a small town bordello that ran for almost 90 years.

Restaurants

Wallace is famous for the Jameson Restaurant Saloon & Inn, located on Sixth Street. It is reputedly haunted according to several generations of employees and guests. By the appearance of the charmingly decorated Victorian upper rooms, it would seem entirely possible. However, the comfort-food style menu is quite good and the restaurant is fashioned in warm, wood tones with an inviting period atmosphere. The Jameson is an excellent place to enjoy dinner and possibly spend the night in room number six, if you dare.

For addition information, call (208) 556-6000

The Enaville Resort, located a few miles northwest of Kellogg, is a restaurant with a chronicle spanning over 100 years. Commonly known as the Snake Pit, this log cabin-styled establishment serves some great food and history. Although there are no accommodations, Enaville used to cater to miners. Their barbeque and fabulous salad bar are so satisfying, especially if you just pulled up on your bicycle after a long ride on the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes.

In Coeur d’Alene, stop by the Coeur d’Alene Brewing Company for lunch. The original brew house dates back to the 1908 and transitioned to its current location after state prohibition in 1986. The CBC has consistently produced some of the finest beers and ales around, especially their Rockford Bay. Their bottling line (a cool old 1940s Pepsi bottling line refitted for beer) produces small amounts of quality and seasonal beers, such as Strawberry Hefeweizen. The menu offers a cross section of lunch pub fare but tastily prepared. For additional information, visit http://www.cdabrewing.com

For an upscale dining experience and exceptional cuisine, reserve seats at Beverly’s, located in the exquisite Coeur d’Alene Golf & Spa Resort. The elegant ambience of the perfectly situated restaurant, presents a full view of Lake Coeur d’Alene. Beverly’s deserves the distinction as one of the top restaurants in America with their discerning standards in quality and presentation. Shellfish and prime tenderloin beef are their signature specialties with a focus on regional accompaniments. For a unique salver, order the Shellfish Tower presented in a superb arrangement. For additional information, visit http://www.cdaresort.com

Accommodations

The absolute top pick for accommodations in Idaho is Silver Mountain Resort’s Morning Star Lodge, located in Kellogg. Close to virtually every summer and winter sports and family activity, this beautiful, yet comfortable and surprisingly affordable establishment provides gorgeous rooms with kitchenettes and sumptuous loft suites with spiral staircases. The modern rooms are designed in warm tones with stone tile accents and deliciously comfortable beds. The bathrooms are good sized with white wainscoting and stone tile floors/ tub walls. The room’s balcony is complete with a small table and two chairs, perfect for relaxing over a cup of coffee and gazing at the mountains. For deeper relaxation, the resort’s rooftop sports a generous hot tub with mountain views. Gondola Village, located within the resort, features Silver Beach Day Spa (a full facility spa). Their soothing hot rock massage is sublime and room massages are available as well.

Silver Mountain is soon to open in early ’08; their spectacular Silver Rapids Indoor Waterpark is the largest in the Northwest. The ultimate water playground for kids and adults of all ages is completely accessible all-year-round as an indoor facility! Summer is a grand opportunity to ride the resort’s Gondola up three miles of scenic mountain and meadow views. Alternatively, bicycle the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes next to the resort. Winter ski season is the time to step out Silver Mountain’s back door and ride the lift up to 73 different runs with 300 inches annually of snow. Whether you ski, snowboard, or just want to go snow tubing, Silver Mountain is one of the best all-year resorts in the Pacific Northwest. For additional information, visit http://www.silvermt.com

The Coeur d’Alene Golf & Spa Resort presides as the premiere resort in Idaho. This romantic establishment is definitely for the chic set with their famous golf course and new spa touted as paramount in the Northwest. Visit the renowned Coeur d’Alene Golf & Spa Resort. For additional information, visit http://www.cdaresort.com

 

 

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